Songkran

Wellwellwell how to describe this craziest of all thai holidays? We knew it would be wet and that there would be parades and celebrations in the street but we didn't exactly expect it on such a grand scale. Of course, people had already started playing when we were in Pai last week and then in Chiang Mai but we were not prepared for the onslaught on Thursday. But first let me explain the meaning of this holiday. It was originally based on the vernal equinox but has now become fixed to the dates of April 13-15. It began as a way for Thais to teach their children about the values of family, home and temple. Most thai people will go back to their Mu-bans (or districts) and spend time with their family. Younger people will give gifts of respect to their elders and people will visit the temples to start the new year with blessings. Originally, people poured small amounts of water on each others hands as a sign of respect. They also brought the statues out of the temples and paraded them around town, allowing people to pour water on them and clean them for the year. Nowadays, these traditions still occur though they are somewhat obscured by the craziness of the all-out water fights going on.

On songkran days, you cannot leave the house without being prepared to be drenched. That means everything of value has to go in a plastic bag and best to wear light materials that won't get heavy. Remember that we can't just walk around in our swimsuits because of Thai modesty. And also sunglasses are a must because you will definitely get shot in the eyes from squirt guns. So we hit the streets and everyone is busy drinking whiskey and/or beer (including my 13-year old students!) and the police officers could care less about anything (not that they would be able to control the huge crowds). Loud music is blasting from every street corner and the thais are openly grinding and getting down (which is shocking considering this is a culture where people don't even kiss in public). They have set up little shade tents made out of banana leaves and flowers and it seems that people just find a spot and stay there all day drenching the passersby. OR they decide to ride around in the back of a pick-up truck throwing water every which way. We found a spot down by the river and it was pure madness. It was fun to see all the funny people going by and we quickly discovered the worst part about songkran: some people throw ice cold water which is rough on the immune system and literally shocking. You are constantly screaming, dogding water, trying to shoot water at others, avoiding drunk motorcyclists, and dancing. It's like all bets are off. I shot a police officer with a water gun and he just laughed. I also saw a guy gryating on that particular cop's leg and the officer just pretended like nothing was going on. My other favorite thing was the powder paste which they sell in little blue jars. The powder is in a rock-like form and you have to add water and mash it up. Then you are allowed to smear this powder paste all over people, cars, whatever comes by. It's really the first time in thailand that i've seen so much physical contact between people. One thai guy even ran up and hugged me from behind and then kissed me!! Can i just say again that this kind of behavior is ridiculously un-thai.

In the middle of all this madness, the police tried to clear that streets for a parade that was coming through. It took them awhile because people kept bounding back into the streets and dancing. Finally when the parade came, they were carrying some relics from temples which everyone poured water on. Then some elders came and were gently pouring nice, fragrant water on everyone as a blessing. It was something suddenly formal in the midst of madness but it was beautiful.

There is good water and then there is bad water. The best water has been mixed in with "Nam ob thai" which is a mixture of lovely-smelling thai herbs that leave a nice perfume on your body. Bad water is the ice-cold water or riverwater that goes in your mouth and/or drink. Thus I awoke on friday with a wicked case of dysentery (?) which has luckily subsided today. Honestly, though songkran lasts 3 days, i was content to play for 5 hours on the one day. I got a taste of riding around in a truck today as i tried to get a ride back from a market out of town. I was adopted by a thai family and invited into the back of their pick-up along with 14 other people. They took me to Wat Lampang Luang to make merit for the new year and we drove through small towns around Lampang getting soaked and freezing cold after awhile. So i will probably play a little bit tomorrow since it's the last day but i'm glad i stayed in lampang. Don't think i could have handled the craziness in chiang mai. Anyways, Tuesday we are off to Laos so for now, just trying to relax and get packed.